Described by CNN as “the world’s finest meal,” kaiseki is equal parts art form and cuisine. It is also confusing and full of ironies. The much-lauded multi-course meal is the peak of fine dining, yet its origins lie in the Buddhist concept of self-restraint. This cooking style values the simplicity of natural ingredients, and yet it can also be a lavish, multi-sensory experience with painstaking attention to visual detail. Even the word “kaiseki” — pronounced “k-eye-seck-ee” — has two meanings, depending on which kanji are used to spell it.
But don’t fear! We’re here to guide you through Japanese kaiseki cuisine, including its long history, each of its many courses, and where to eat kaiseki in Japan and the United States.
What is kaiseki?
Kaiseki ryōri, or just kaiseki (“ryōri” means cooking), is a multi-course Japanese meal. A kaiseki meal can have anywhere from seven to 14 courses, although it can be fewer or more, depending on the chef. Each offering features exquisitely yet simply prepared seasonal ingredients. The finest kaiseki establishments pride themselves on foraging the freshest ingredients locally the same day that the meal is to be prepared.
Kaiseki is the picture of refinement and celebration of the moment — and we mean that literally, because the visual elements of the meal are just as important as the taste. Japanese kaiseki cuisine brings the talents of the chef to the fore, as only chefs with impeccable technique and skill can achieve a transcendent kaiseki meal.
What does ‘kaiseki’ mean?
While there is only one way to spell “kaiseki” in English, there are two ways to spell it in Japanese: 懐石 and 会席. They describe two different experiences, and provide a glimpse into the history of the kaiseki meal.
懐石 comes from the word “chakaiseki,” or 茶懐石, which literally translates to “stones in the bosom.” It refers to how Zen Buddhist monks would wrap a warm stone in their robes and hold it close to their stomach in an attempt to subdue hunger pangs. It recalls a no-frills multi-dish meal served before enjoying tea. (We’ll dive deeper into that history in a bit.)
会席 comes from the kanji for “social gathering” (会, “kai”) and “seating” (席, “seki”). This spelling more accurately describes kaiseki as the elaborate haute cuisine experience it is today.
Where did kaiseki originate?
Goma dofu, a tofu-like food made from sesame paste instead of soybeans, is a typical shōjin ryōri dish
Kaiseki cuisine can be traced back to the Buddhist shōjin ryōri cuisine that took root in 13th century Japan. The word “shōjin” translates to diligence, and describes the practice of Zen Buddhist monks who followed strict dietary rules: No animal products, no strong flavors, and just enough food to keep you going. Following the concept of “ichi ju san sai” — one soup, three sides — it consists of several small bowls accompanied by rice, pickles and tea. Shōjin ryōri can still be enjoyed in Japanese restaurants today, especially in Kyoto, the former capital of Japan that is home to more than 1,600 temples and 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Approximately three centuries later, tea master and former Buddhist monk Sen no Rikyū took this customary meal and made it part of the tea ceremony — now a cornerstone of traditional Japanese culture — whose core concept is to achieve inner harmony and harmony with nature.
Around the same time, a similar yet more indulgent style of dining took off amongst the samurai class: honzen ryōri. Honzen ryōri was modeled on the same structure as shōjin ryōri, but also featured a main dish of fish, and plenty of sake. Seasonality of ingredients, visual presentation and entertainment were also components of this culinary style.
It wasn’t long before these types of cuisine spread to “ryokan” (traditional Japanese inns) and restaurants, and morphed into the highly orchestrated kaiseki affair of the modern era.
Kaiseki vs. omakase: What’s the difference?
Sashimi plate offered to guests at Tippsy Kampai! Two Nine Sake x Seasonal Omakase event in D.C., Dec. 22, 2023 | Courtesy of Hung Tran
Another type of Japanese cuisine that’s increasing in popularity internationally is omakase. The name comes from the Japanese phrase, “omakase shimasu” (お任せします), which translates to, “I leave it to you.” People often equate it with the phrase “chef’s choice.”
Like kaiseki, omakase is a meal consisting of many small courses, all expertly prepared by an experienced chef. Also similar is the use of the freshest seasonal ingredients, beautifully plated. Both kaiseki and omakase can be fine dining experiences that cost a pretty penny.
So what’s the difference between kaiseki and omakase? During an omakase meal, the chef may improvise and change a course to suit a particular diner’s preferences. Conversely, kaiseki meals are pre-determined and fixed.
Kaiseki courses: How to eat kaiseki
Generally, a kaiseki meal begins with appetizers, followed by soup, sashimi, a seasonal dish, simmered dish, grilled dish, rice dish and dessert. Oftentimes, there will also be small dishes in between to cleanse the palate. Of course, the structure of the meal ultimately depends on the chef, but a kaiseki meal will have all or some of the following:
- Sakizuke/zensai (appetizer course)
- Suimono (first soup course)
- Hassun (seasonal platter)
- Mukozuke/otsukuri (sashimi course)
- Takiawase/nimono (vegetable/simmered course)
- Futamono/wanmono (second soup course)
- Yakimono (grilled course)
- Mushimono (steamed course)
- Shiizakana (small dish with sake)
- Gohan/shokuji (rice course)
- Mizumono/mizugashi (dessert course)
Sake can be enjoyed at various stages of the meal. Typically, it’s served during the opening course and/or the more salty, umami-forward courses, as sake contains lots of umami! Learn more about Japan’s national beverage.
Sakizuke/zensai (appetizer course)
Sakizuke course of kaiseki meal
The words “sakizuke” and “zensai” both describe the first kaiseki course: the appetizer. This is a small dish meant to awaken the diner’s palate and set the stage for the rest of the meal. Pickled vegetables, a small salad tossed in vinaigrette, and a bit of carpaccio are all examples of dishes that can be served during this first course.
Suimono (first soup course)
“Suimono” translates to “sipping things,” and refers to a category of clear soups without miso. Made with dashi and soy sauce broth, it is a light soup that honors the inherent flavors of the ingredients, like seasonal matsutake mushrooms, tofu or fresh clams. People say that the suimono course of a kaiseki meal is indicative of the chef’s skill, as it takes a certain mastery to create a clear soup that is delicate yet flavorful.
Hassun (seasonal platter)
Hassun course served during springtime
While the entire kaiseki meal makes use of fresh and seasonal ingredients, “hassun” is the course that really showcases the bounty of the season. The word “hassun” actually refers to the 24-centimeter platter on which the foods are typically served. On this platter, you will see a little bit of everything — small delicacies of seasonal vegetables, fish, sea urchin and more — presented in a way that visually represents the time of year, such as with recently plucked spring flowers.
Mukozuke/otsukuri (sashimi course)
The sashimi course of a kaiseki meal usually consists of at least two types of freshly caught, local fish or seafood, expertly cut and served raw. Depending on the time of year, this can include certain types of sea bream, tuna, squid, flounder, etc.
Takiawase/nimono (vegetable/simmered course)
While meat or fish may be served during this course, the spotlight is on the vegetables. A chef may personally forage for the wild plants and vegetables that very morning, which may include mushrooms and root vegetables from the local area. These ingredients are then simmered in a mixture of dashi, mirin and soy sauce, and lightly seasoned.
Futamono/wanmono (second soup course)
This soup course is typically served in a deep bowl, often with a lid. This dish tends to boast stronger flavors than the first soup course, and may feature heartier meats. It can also be “chawanmushi,” or savory egg custard made with dashi, although this can be saved for the “mushimono” (steamed course).
Yakimono (grilled course)
Kaiseki course of Kobe beef with citrus sauce at Kappou Sanzenin no Sato Gionhonten in Kyoto | Photo by Devin Yang
By now you’re probably wondering how you could possibly eat any more. But you’ll have to make room, because you’ll likely have an entire grilled fish placed in front of you for the “yakimono” course. “Yakimono” means “grilled things,” so this course could also consist of grilled octopus or grilled wagyu beef, but most often, it’s a whole grilled fish from the freshest catch.
Mushimono (steamed course)
The mushimono course displays another cooking technique: steaming. This course may include steamed clams, prawns, fish and vegetables. As mentioned earlier, a savory egg custard called chawanmushi is an example of a common mushimono dish.
Shiizakana (small dish with sake)
Usually an especially savory or salty bite, “shiizakana” is meant to be paired with sake, Japan’s umami-rich national beverage. Sake contains more lactic acid and succinic acid compared to wine. This means that it is better for pairing with savory foods, from cheese to seafood. And of course, salty things always go well with alcohol! Think of shrimp or vegetable tempura.
A chef will likely select a sake produced in the same prefecture or region in which the kaiseki meal takes place. They may also opt for “namazake” (unpasteurized sake), which is often seasonal and produced in limited quantities. These sake are typically crafted with the season’s ingredients in mind; “hiyaoroshi” (fall sake), for example, tend to pair very well with autumn vegetables and fish, such as squash and Pacific saury. Learn more about pairing food with sake.
Gohan/shokuji (rice course)
“Gohan” (cooked rice) and “shokuji” (meal) are both terms that refer to the rice course of the kaiseki meal. A staple of the Japanese diet, a meal isn’t truly a meal without rice. This kaiseki course may simply consist of white rice served alongside “konomono” (pickled vegetables) and “tomewan” (miso soup or clear soup). It can also be a rice dish served in a clay pot, perhaps with vegetables or fish mixed in.
Mizumono/mizugashi (dessert course)
Dessert course at Kappou Sanzenin no Sato Gionhonten in Kyoto | Photo by Devin Yang
You’ve finally made it to dessert! Kaiseki dessert almost always features fruits that are in season at the time of the meal. That’s why “mizu,” the Japanese word for water, can be found in both names for this course; fruit largely consists of water. Fresh fruit, candied fruit, fruit sorbet and fruit jelly made with agar agar are all examples of foods served during the dessert course. Often, they are served alongside some kind of small cake, mochi or other “wagashi” (Japanese confection).
The dessert course of a kaiseki meal may be served with or prior to tea, or with a sweet sake like “kijoshu” (sake brewed with sake).
Is there vegetarian kaiseki?
Vegetarians and vegans famously have a difficult time in Japan, where seafood is a way of life. However, there are some restaurants in Japan that accommodate vegetarians and vegans if given advance notice. Check the establishment’s website or give them a call to see if this is possible.
Additionally, there are restaurants that specialize in the Zen Buddhist vegetarian cuisine of shōjin ryōri, the progenitor of kaiseki cuisine. Tenryuji Temple’s Shigetsu restaurant in Kyoto serves shōjin ryōri that is Michelin-recommended “Bib Gourmand,” for good quality, good value cooking. The temple itself dates back to 1339, and the site on which it was built was originally the location of Japan’s first Zen temple, Danrinji, back in the ninth century.
How much is kaiseki dinner in Japan?
You now know just how much effort goes into each kaiseki meal, from procuring the freshest ingredients to cooking and presenting each course. So how much does kaiseki cost? It varies from restaurant to restaurant, but a kaiseki dinner in Japan can range anywhere from 15,000 yen to 100,000 yen. In the United States, kaiseki usually reaches into the $200 or $300 range. Just as with any other dining establishment, cost depends on a variety of factors, such as location, rarity of the ingredients, atmosphere, notoriety of the chef, etc.
So yes, kaiseki can be quite expensive. But there is good news! If you’re budget-conscious, kaiseki lunches are more wallet-friendly. These can be truncated versions of the full kaiseki dinner, or simply a beautiful bento box featuring the restaurant’s best seasonal offerings. Kaiseki lunch in Japan can range from 3,000 yen to 10,000 yen, which is much more affordable. In the United States, you may find a kaiseki lunch in the low-to-mid $100 range, but it is less ubiquitous than kaiseki dinner.
Where to eat kaiseki in Kyoto
Nanzenji Sanmon Gate in Kyoto
While kaiseki restaurants can be found all across Japan, the best place to experience the cuisine’s weighty history is in its birthplace of Kyoto. There are dozens of reputable Kyoto restaurants that deserve to be mentioned, but here are a couple of the most notable.
Hyotei, the restaurant at the entrance of Nanzenji Temple — one of the most prominent Rinzai Zen temples in Japan — has a history of more than 400 years. What was originally a teahouse has transformed over the centuries into a three-Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant. Their kaiseki lunch starts at 31,625 yen, and their kaiseki dinner starts at 37,950 yen.
Kikunoi, another three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Kyoto, is also world-famous, and is credited with spreading the appreciation of kaiseki cuisine internationally. Representative Director Yoshihiro Murata is the third-generation head chef of the original Kyoto location, and has opened three other locations, including in Tokyo. He has been honored as a “modern artisan” by the Minister of Health, Labour and Welfare, and was also awarded for his distinguished service to culture. And if you catch a flight aboard Singapore Airlines, you may also enjoy a menu co-designed by Maruta and other esteemed international chefs!
Where can I find kaiseki cuisine in the US?
Not surprisingly, major cities with sizable Asian populations are the best places to find kaiseki restaurants in the U.S. However, many chefs have adapted kaiseki to suit their local clientele, and conflate their brand of contemporary kaiseki with omakase or “chef’s choice” dining. So keep in mind the kind of experience you’re after when selecting a restaurant. Most kaiseki and omakase restaurants also offer a full sake pairing menu for an additional charge.
Kaiseki in New York City
The Flatiron building in New York City
If you’re seeking traditional kaiseki in NYC, you may want to spend an elegant evening at odo, a two-starred Michelin restaurant in the Flatiron District. To the delight of vegetarians, odo also hosts shōjin ryōri dining events four times a year!
Other Michelin-recommended kaiseki restaurants in New York include SoHo establishment Hirohisa, and Towa in NoMad. In terms of cost, a kaiseki dinner at odo is at the higher end of the spectrum at over $250 per person, although they do have kaiseki lunch that’s more than $100 cheaper. At $125, Towa is the most affordable restaurant of these options.
Kaiseki in Los Angeles
Top-notch kaiseki dining experiences are plentiful in LA. If you’re not afraid of spending more than $350 on dinner, eat like the rich and famous at Michelin-starred n/naka near Culver City. Chef Niki Nakayama enraptures her A-list audience with her modern take on the traditional Japanese culinary art using organic vegetables grown in the restaurant’s garden.
Shibumi in downtown LA is a bit more wallet-friendly, though also a recipient of a Michelin star. Shibumi offers an a la carte menu as well as a multi-course menu. Vegetarian options are available upon request.
Kaiseki in Seattle
Wa’z kaiseki restaurant in the Belltown neighborhood of Seattle was a top 50 nominee for Bon Appetit’s Best New Restaurant in 2018. Their kaiseki menu changes on the first Wednesday of every month, so there is always something new to discover! Not to mention, it’s about half the price of LA’s n/naka.
Another option is Taneda on Capitol Hill, which according to Eater, serves up some of the best sushi in the city, and provides “a one-of-a-kind experience in a city with plenty of competition.” With meals starting at $255 per person, it’s a bit pricier than wa’z.
Kaiseki in Las Vegas
Yearning for upscale Japanese dining in Sin City? Make a reservation at Kaiseki Yuzu, helmed by James Beard Award nominee, Chef Kaoru Azeuchi. When training and working in Japan, Azeuchi once had the honor of serving then-Crown Prince and current Emperor Naruhito. If it’s good enough for the emperor of Japan, it’s probably good enough for you! Kaiseki offerings begin at $165, with the more premium or specially themed menus reaching into the $200-$300 range.
Also trending is Kaiseki Sanga, which is owned by the same restaurant group that operates Kabuto Edomae Sushi (dubbed the best sushi in Las Vegas by 50 Best). Their kaiseki dinner is $250 per person.
A gateway to the marvels of Japanese culture
Famous rock garden at Ryōanji Temple in Kyoto
Aside from being delicious, Japanese kaiseki cuisine is a lens through which we can understand Japanese culture. Every bite and sip contains a piece of history and a demonstration of traditional values, such as simplicity, hospitality and reverence for nature. At the same time, this humility is juxtaposed by the chef’s artistic mastery of the craft, making it the most luxurious dining experience in the world. Approaching your next kaiseki meal with this knowledge will not only help you be more familiar with how it works, but also deepen your appreciation and enjoyment.
Resources
50 Best. “The best restaurants and bars in Las Vegas.”
https://www.theworlds50best.com/discovery/sitemap/us/las%20vegas
Fuji, M. “What is hassun in Japanese kaiseki?: the finest traditional Japanese appetizer sampler.” Zero = Abundance.
https://www.interactiongreen.com/kaiseki-hassun/
Hutcherson, A. “Kitchen Language: What is Kaiseki?” Michelin Guide. Nov. 15, 2017.
https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/article/features/what-is-kaiseki-japanese-meal
Hyotei
http://hyotei.co.jp/en/
Japan National Tourism Organization. “Kaiseki Guide: Experience a Japanese culinary art form.”
https://www.japan.travel/en/guide/japanese-kaiseki-cuisine/
Kikunoi
https://kikunoi.jp/en/
Lam, M. “Kaiseki Ryouri – Historical Haute Cuisine.” Arigato Travel. Feb. 2, 2020.
https://arigatojapan.co.jp/kaiseki-ryouri-historical-haute-cuisine/?srsltid=AfmBOoo9IbA-O8Bnh9JyaewJNb-Mu37qV4t_hNO-yjgvhr5ENVSSm2aF
McElhinney, D. “To Understand Japanese Cuisine, Start With Kaiseki and Shojin Ryori.” Matador Network. Feb. 4, 202.
https://matadornetwork.com/read/everything-need-know-kaiseki-japan/
Odell, K. “Celebrate the Seasons at These Five Kaiseki Restaurants.” Michelin Guide. March 4, 2024.
https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/article/features/top-kaiseki-restaurants-in-america-michelin-guide
Repanich, J. “The Intricate Art (and Hidden History) of Kaiseki.” Robb Report. March 22, 2018.
https://robbreport.com/food-drink/dining/how-kaiseki-one-worlds-great-forms-fine-dining-eg18-2783078/
Rowthorn, C. “Kaiseki: A Complete Guide to Japan’s Haute Cuisine.” Inside Kyoto.
https://www.insidekyoto.com/kaiseki-a-complete-guide-to-japans-haute-cuisine
Savor Japan. “Kaiseki Cuisine: Japan's Artful Culinary Tradition Explained.” May 30, 2023.
https://savorjapan.com/contents/more-to-savor/kaiseki-cuisine-japans-artful-culinary-tradition-explained/
Tenryu-ji
https://www.tenryuji.com/en/
Thron, L. “Exploring Kaiseki, the Delicious Haute Cuisine of Japan.” Rosetta Stone. Aug. 20, 2024.
https://blog.rosettastone.com/kaiseki/#history-of-kaiseki
Ueno, T. “Sommelier Talk: Episode 6 – Comparing the Acidity in Sake & Wine.” Sake School of America. Sep. 28, 2015.
https://www.sakeschoolofamerica.com/news/sommeliertalk/sommelier-talk-episode-6/
UNESCO World Heritage Convention. “Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto (Kyoto, Uji and Otsu Cities).”
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/688/
Van Huygen, M. Grossman, S. “Best Sushi in Seattle.” Eater Seattle. Nov. 5, 2024.
https://seattle.eater.com/maps/best-sushi-restaurants-seattle
Yong, D. “Kaiseki 懐石 or kaiseki 会席?” Michelin Guide. June 5, 2016.
https://guide.michelin.com/en/article/dining-out/kaiseki-cheatsheet-sg
Yu, E. “A beginner’s guide to kaiseki, the world’s finest meal.” CNN Travel. Nov. 8, 2016.
https://www.cnn.com/travel/article/guide-to-kaiseki-cuisine/index.html
